The Edge (and the Phantom Lord)
“At what point, I try to ask myself objectively, do statistically hazardous, entirely elective pastimes become unethical? Put another way: to what degree, if at all, do we owe our self-preservation to those whom we profess to love, to our emotional and financial dependents? At what point does a dangerous pastime, through its mere practice, constitute betrayal? The question has another half: at what point, through abstinence from highly rewarding but hazardous activities on grounds of social responsibility, do we betray ourselves? If so, and most important: how do we find a balance?”
– Andrew Todhunter, Fall of the Phantom Lord.
It’s a fascinating question to anyone who doesn’t climb, but obviously circular to anyone who does. For most climbers, self-preservation is the reason to climb, not the reason not to. It is that Edge – the physical climbing act and the risk that accompanies it – which makes everything else in life possible and pleasant.
On the other hand, perhaps the “Phantom Lord” Dan Osman did take it a little too far…


